My Second Pair of Ginger Jeans by Closet Case Patterns

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Do you ever lay in bed at night thinking about your next or current make? I do. All the time. And after I made my first pair of Ginger Jeans by Closet Case Patterns I spent quite a few nights trying to decide which modifications to make for my next pair. I wear jeans practically every day, so making my own that actually fit in all the right places has become one of my life goals. That may sound like a weird life goal, but seriously, a good-fitting pair of jeans makes me feel so confident and beautiful. It’s life-changing.

Just to start off, I thought it might be helpful and interesting to see the first and second pair side-by-side.

 

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So, I realized with pair #1 on the left that there were some major issues in the crotch area. The jeans were quite tight, but the pulling at the crotch just didn’t look right. I went onto the Closet Case website and read the post on fitting your jeans . I knew I had to either lengthen or shorten the crotch, but I was really confused which one to do. When I started doing more research and reading other blogs, everyone seemed to be shortening their crotches instead of lengthening them. In fact, I didn’t find a single blogger who lengthened the crotch. But I did anyway.

Why I lengthened the crotch

Apart from the wrinkles, I noticed that the jeans were pulling down in the front, like there wasn’t enough room in the front for them to sit properly on my waist. Then I started looking at my RTW jeans, and they did the same thing. Also I made the high-waisted version, and these just didn’t seem very high on me. The waistband still sat below my belly button, when it was supposed to sit slightly above it. With dressmaking and shirt making, I know that I have a long torso, and usually have to adjust for that, but it never crossed my mind that I might have a long crotch or abdomen. But it makes perfect sense now!

Jeans #2 Below. Look at that high waist! Yay!

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Materials

Denim: 10 oz. dark blue/black denim from Jo-Ann Fabrics (with a coupon it cost me about $10 for 1.5 yards)

  • Denim shrunk a lot when I washed it. I was barely able to to get all the pieces cut out, even with cutting 6″ off the leg length.
  • You get what you pay for. It isn’t very sturdy, and doesn’t hold it’s shape that well. This is great denim for making your first few pairs. But once you get the fit down, go out and get some quality denim. Threadbare Fabrics has beautiful American-made denim. And you only need about 1.5 yards for a pair of jeans, so even the nice stuff is affordable.

Hardware: Rivets are from Tailor Taylor . Zipper is one I’ve had in my stash for a while.

Thread: Coats and Clark gold jeans topstitching thread.

Lining: I used a green quilting cotton for the pocket stays and waistband facing. I also used a lightweight fusible interfacing in the waistband.

Modifications

  1. Cut off 6″ from bottom of leg. I didn’t use the lengthen or shorten line on the pattern, but just cut off from the bottom.
  2. Did a full calf adjustment following the Closet Case tutorial.
  3. Lengthened the front crotch by 1/2″ and the back crotch by 1/4″, also using the Closet Case tutorial . Heather isn’t joking when she says very small adjustment make a HUGE difference. I wouldn’t recommend doing anything more than 1/2″.
  4. Curved in the yoke by about 1/2″ on each back yoke piece. This helps pull in the jeans at the top of my booty and give a nice curve. I probably couldn’t gone with a little more curve.
  5. Curved in the waistband by about 1/2″ on two spots on the waistband. This helps with a gaping waistband.

 

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As you can see, these are now true high-waist jeans. And they feel AMAZING. I have never owned a pair of jeans that doesn’t feel like my butt crack will show when I bend over. And my abdomen is actually covered, which sounds weird, but it feel so secure and comfy.

These still aren’t completely perfect, but I am not a perfectionist when it comes to my sewing, and these fit pretty dang amazing for now! Now I’m ready to cut into some of my more expensive denim and see if that helps even more with the fit. I think it will, as the stretch in this denim is pretty wimpy. But they’ll gets tons of wear nonetheless. I already can’t even stand putting my RTW jeans on.

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How I Store My PDF Patterns

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Back in November I discovered the vast and exciting world of indie patterns. I stuck one together and made it ( the Chardon Skirt by Deer and Doe Patterns). It didn’t seem so bad to go through the extra hassle of printing and sticking together all the pieces, so I did what any excited sewist would do and bought a bunch more. Well, fast forward a couple weeks and I start regretting my decision. Not because I don’t like the PDF process, but because I realized I truly appreciated the beautiful, easy, and uniform packaging of printed patterns. But I still wanted to use all those patterns I purchased, so I started thinking about a storage solution.

I wanted my all my patterns to be able to fit into the same storage crates, so I measured a standard printed pattern envelope, then looked up 6×9″ envelopes on Amazon. And I found exactly what I was looking for! Kraft Paper Envelopes .

And I am so happy with how my PDFs are now looking that I made this little tutorial. So, if you’re like me, and enjoy order and uniformity in your sewing room, get some envelopes and follow along!

Print Your Pattern Booklet

In order to get your pattern booklet to fit into the little envelope, you will need to make sure you adjust the scale in the print menu. Note: some pattern companies have their instructions already set up so that the pages print in a booklet form ( Tilly and The Buttons). But for most you will need to either select a booklet printing format or simply adjust the scale to 75%.

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Cut The Booklet

You can use scissors for this part, but it’s much easier if you have a paper cutter ( I have the guillotine kind, but the slicing ones work as well). But I’m guessing if you do stick together lots of PDFs you probably already have one of these. And if not, get one!

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I cut my instruction booklet pages to about 5.75″ x 8.25″

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Decorate The Front

I love my patterns to look pretty, so take the first page of the instruction booklet, trim it, and tape or glue it to the front of the envelope. If you’re printer does color, even better. You could also decorate the cover or use highlighters or markers to add color. Also if you’ll be storing your patterns upright in a box, make sure the illustration is close to the top of the envelope, so you’ll be able to see it when you’re flipping through patterns.

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These envelopes aren’t huge, so I like to trace my pattern pieces onto thinner tracing paper so everything fits nicely.

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Voila! Beautiful PDF envelopes that fit in perfectly with all my printed patterns!

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